The manufacturers of steel roofing shingles have specialized processes which allow them to texture the steel and layer its finish, nearly eliminating the natural shine of the steel so that even on close inspection it looks like the material it is being used to imitate.

this shingles, however, are not usually installed as individual shingles. They are really big sections measuring about 4′ X 4′, designed for fast and easy installation. While there are some individual steel shingles, they are rare because the demand for them is limited.

The Advantages of Steel Roofing

There are many reasons why a homeowner might prefer steel shingles to natural wood shake or tile, and one of the most important is cost. All is cheaper than the it is meant to resemble, and any homeowner faced with having to replace an entire roof is undoubtedly going to find this fact attractive.

Steel is exceptionally light when compared to other materials like tile or slate. Weighing 1.5 pounds per square foot as opposed to the 7.5 pounds of tile and the 9 pounds of concrete, steel can in some cases be installed directly over r an existing roof without without the roof’s structure having to be reinforced to handle the extra weight.

Another factor in the decision to choose steel over tile or wood shakes is that has high fire resistance. In fact, is certified as having Class A (the highest) fire resistance when it is installed over the right kind of underlayment materials. Homeowners using any roofing will experience much greater peace of mind if they use the most fire-resistant underlayment.

As we mentioned above, large panels of steel roofing can, in some instances, be installed directly over an existing roof, but it’s more common for shingle steel to be attached to a roof after the old roofing materials have been removed and the roof surface thoroughly cleaned. Steel roofing, in additions to its low cost and ease of installation, is also a low-maintenance roofing material which will look new for years. It can be kept in pristine condition with an occasional hosing down.

The Drawbacks Of Steel Roofing

The biggest drawback of steel roofing
steel roofing is that if left untreated, it will be susceptible to both corrosion and rust. To over come these defects the manufacturers of steel roofing have taken to coating it with Kynar, a type of plastic available in a wide range of colors, so that there is almost certainly one to complement every home. But steel roofing treated with a rustproof finish makes an inexpensive, lightweight, strong, and remarkably durable roof.

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Asphalt Roofing Shingles

Referring to asphalt roofing as “shingles,” however, is somewhat misleading. Although asphalt roofs have the appearance of being composed of row upon row of individual shingles, they are actually covered with sheets of one yard long which have notched to make them look as if they contained individual shingles.

The major factor accounting for the popularity of asphalt shingles in the United States is their reasonable price. Which are also marketed as either composition or fiberglass shingles, cost less than almost all other kinds of material. They are, in addition to being inexpensive, easy enough to install that a homeowner will some basic carpentry skills can do his or her own asphalt shingle installation!

Composition is also known as organic asphalt shingles, because they are made from wither wood or organic cellulose fiber dipped in asphalt and coated with ground minerals. Fiberglass, or inorganic, asphalt shingles have a base mat of synthetic fiberglass, also given an asphalt and ground mineral coat. Because both types of shingle receive the asphalt treatment, they are lumped together as asphalt shingles. The biggest advantage inorganic asphalt singles have over organic ones is that their fiberglass base mats increase their fire resistance ratings.

Metal Roofing Shingles

While asphalt shingles are far and away the best-selling residential materials in the United States, they are certainly not the only type of shingle roofing available to homeowners. While it may not sound terribly attractive, is now being manufactured to resemble wooden shakes without saddling homeowners with either the price tag or the fire hazard associated with natural wooden shakes.

The metals most commonly used in faux-wooden shakes aluminum, which is both very lightweight and rust-proof. These aluminum roofing shingles, however, will be more expensive than asphalt roofing shingles.

Metal roofing shingles of any kind, when installed correctly over the proper underlayment, can receive the highest class of fire resistance rating, an A-class. This feature makes metal roofing shingles very attractive to homeowners who live in areas of the Untied States where drought is common and wildfires are a serious concern.

Wood Roofing Shingles

Wooden roll roofing shingles and shakes are another attractive home roofing alternative which home-owning handymen can install with a bit of effort, but they are both far more expensive than asphalt shingles and far less fire-resistant than metal roofing shingles. Their biggest selling point is that they can be installed over existing asphalt shingles, saving the costs of shingle removal and disposal. Wood roofing shingles and shakes are great for adding natural rustic looks to homes.

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While you may have read various claims that rubber roofing is perfectly fine when installed over existing shingles, the reality is that most self installed rubber roofing manufacturers will not honor the warranty on any roof which is not installed on a completely clean surface. So before you begin installing your rubber roofing, you’ll have to tear up and dispose your existing shingles, and put down a fresh plywood underlayment if your roof requires it.

Advantages of Self Installed Rubber Roofing

Self installed rubber roofing comes in a variety of styles, in both rolls and shingles of different colors, but all of them are installed in a similar manner. Self installed rubber roofing, if laid correctly, will protect your roof for years in all kinds of weather, and will not be vulnerable to splitting nor cracking. Self installed rubber roofing is an ideal roofing material for large flat roofs.

Because self installed rubber roofing is flexible, it can “breathe” with your roof as the roof expands and contracts in response to changes in temperature. Because of this, self installed rubber roofing experiences much less stress than traditional asphalt roof shingles, and the first rubber roof which was installed in Wisconsin in 1980 is still performing perfectly after nearly three decades of Wisconsin winters!

All self installed rubber roofing, whether shingle or roll style, is attached to the roof’s surface with adhesive. So the roof itself must be as clean as possible and have nothing protruding which could piece the rubber roofing when walked on.

The adhesive used to secure the self installed rubber roofing will not set up properly on a damp, dusty, or dirty surface so all water, oil, debris, and dirt should be scrubbed or cleaned up, with a leaf blower used to rid the roof of dust.

Installing The Rubber Roofing

The rubber roofing should then be unrolled onto the area being covered, and cut to fit around any pipes or vents. The roofing should be completely cut and shaped to the roof before adhesive is applied to it, and when it has been cut, the roofing should be rolled up approximately halfway and the adhesive applied thinly to the surface of the roof with a deep nap paint roller. The glue should be applied evenly so that it dries flat, and then applied to the self installed rubber roof and given time to set up.

Once the glue has set for a few minutes, the rubber roofing can be rolled out onto the glued roof surface. It’s essential to place the roofing material smoothly, because it will be nearly impossible to lift it once it is attached to the adhesive on the roof. Allow the first half of the self installed roofing to dry for an hour and repeat the entire process with the other half!

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You can’t have too many roofs in your inventory without dealing with leaks. If you rehab, you EXPECT to find ceiling stains, the tell tale sign of a leaky roof, in almost every project. I find projects without signs of past or present leaks the exception to the norm!

Sometimes shingles are just going to need replaced. There is no getting around it. Curled shingles, and numerous leaks are a pretty good indication that it would be cheaper to replace the roof rather than repair. Just factor that into the repairs and accept it. It’s one thing you won’t have to worry about if you are keeping the property, and it ups the value whether you keep it or sell it on the retail market after the rehab.

If the shingles still have some life on them, but there is some leakage to repair, finding the real source of the problem can take multiple tries. It can get pretty aggravating as you sometimes try and fail to fix a leaky roof. Naturally, you want to try to fix this without calling out an expensive professional roofer. Sometimes you can, sometimes you can’t. Here are some tips for diagnosing roof leaks.

- I find that in the course of a rehab, it’s always “good” to have an extended period of heavy rains. That way, any and all leaks become evident. If you have a property that is not occupied, or that is not being actively rehabbed after a period of extended rains, go visit and check for signs of leaks. If you can stop by while it’s still raining, that’s the number one, best time to investigate leaks from inside the attic.

- Get a mini flashlight that goes into a small belt holster and make that part of your normal clothing. You will use it all the time…for more than looking in attics! It’s great for plumbing, under cabinets, etc. Make it part of the “uniform.”

- The garden hose – a rehabber’s friend. In a recent project of mine, the roof was relatively new yet I had a ceiling stain in the kitchen. We’d thought it was all taken care of in two tries, so we patched the ceiling, applied stain block, and textured over the spot. Then came the rains, and the circular and symmetrical spot was back! I’d had just about enough so I climbed onto the roof, garden hose in hand, and stationed my handyman in the attic. In less than a minute of hosing down the roof we found the very tiny hole that was the culprit. A dab of tar below and above the shingle and viola! Problem solved. The tiny hole was causing water to drip directly onto the ceiling drywall, hence the circular stain.

- Watch for stain patterns. The pattern can offer you hints. When you come across a circular ceiling stain, there’s a good chance the leak is dripping directly onto the ceiling dry wall from above. Put a nail in the center of the stain and get into the attic and look directly above the nail and you might just find the problem. If you do this in bright daylight, a spec of light might be visible, which would make the repair a little easier. Even if you find a hole, I still recommend the garden hose trick to see if there are other problems to fix.

If the stain is small and circular, it usually means the amount of water is small…lucky you. If the stain region is larger, it may still be an easy fix especially if it is a single hole. If there is enough rain making onto the ceiling drywall, it will pool and soak in. This will make it look like a massive leak, when it might be a one-shingle repair (plus some new ceiling drywall). The garden hose trick will quickly tell you if the problem is a single hole, or your roof is like Swiss cheese.

Stains that appear along a line may indicate that water is draining along a rafter or truss. Inspect that rafter starting from the top looking for signs of water. The source may be a single hole that is sending water down the rafter making multiple stains show up in a line.

- Isolating the leak. Be aware of the ridgeline. When you are inspecting a property, be aware of the direction the roof ridgeline runs as you inspect the interior. If you come across a ceiling stain toward the middle of the house near where the ridgeline is above you, the source of the water is easier to isolate. Water doesn’t flow up! So, the suspect area extends from roughly the stain area, up to the ridgeline. In many cases, that’s a lot less roof to investigate.

On the other hand when stains are out near the roof edges, they are the trickiest to diagnose. Why? The source of the water could be from higher in the roof than where the stain is. The water could be getting under a shingle near the peak, draining down between the shingles and ply, and finally leaking at the point you are seeing the stain. It’s just hard to tell upon initial inspection. Get into the roof and check out the rafters around that area for signs of water stains? If you’re lucky you’ll see light and a hole. If you’re not that lucky, it’s time to get on the roof and see what you can find. If you don’t find anything obvious, it’s time to call a roofer…that is, unless you decide to replace the whole roof.

- Valleys are often the culprit when it comes to leaky roofs. I especially find this in property that has been neglected or vacant for long periods of time. Very often the problem is caused because leaves have accumulated in the valley. These leaves hold moisture which rots the shingles and underlying ply over time. Depending on the extent of the rot, the repair can range from replacing ply and shingles to cleaning off the leaves and letting it dry. Be aware of your roof valleys and keep them clear!

With roof leaks, there are no short cuts. It’s easier and cheaper in the long run to aggressively diagnose the leak problem and seek hidden leaks that just haven’t soaked through the ceiling drywall yet. Don’t assume that once you find one hole in the roof, or a cracked shingle that the problem is fixed. Get that hose out and confirm it! There is something about climbing in an attic and on a roof that isn’t fun to re-do.

Paul Erdos, like many mathematicians, was an eccentric. He wasn’t interested in money, and gave what little he made to beggars and various strangers. With no family, job, nor hobbies to speak of, he dedicated his life to math. Nor did he ever have his own address. Rather than purchase a home, he instead moved around within a network of friends worldwide with which he stayed. He would just come by without calling beforehand and announce, “My brain is open!” His motto? “Another roof, another proof!”

Of course, most of us don’t live a transient, mathematical lifestyle like old Paul’s, and as such must deal with the practicalities of roofing, of maintaining our roof, of protecting it, of, basically, keeping it from falling down on our heads. But how do you keep your roof in good shape? Easy—by paying attention. Inspecting your roof for signs of damage should be done annually, but most people don’t.

Most roofs made of asphalt are designed to last usefully for about a decade and a half, and roofs made of metal, slate, or tile last even longer, but you should still buck the trend of ignoring the roof and make sure your roof is properly maintained—after all, useful service is a bare minimum that you should endeavor to surpass.

Take a stroll outside and look, really look, at your roof. Usually you take it for granted—it’s there, it has shingles, it keeps the rain out. Now that you’re taking a good look at it, does anything look out of place? Are there shingles that are loose, maybe damaged, or even shingles which have black streaks on them? Are trees touching your roof? If you answered yes to the above questions, then it’s time for a check up.

What’s so bad about those things? After all, what’s a little bit of tree hugging on the part of the roof if it’s not leaking? There’s more to it than appearances.

Trees can cause a variety of problems. Branches can scratch and gouge roofing material (in other words—leaks). Trees falling due to wind can puncture shingles and cause other damage to your roofing. Leaves clog gutter systems and back up water into attics and other spaces inside your house.

What about those black streaks? Streaks on your roof are evidence of mold—and as you probably know, mold is hazardous to your health if inhaled. Mold grows easily during humid periods, especially on roofs that face north. If you don’t deal with them as soon as possible, they will eat away at the roofing material, and eventually eat through it, causing leaks. You can kill two birds with one stone by trimming back nearby trees, thus diminishing the possibility of damage due to falling branches and leaves while also removing from the mold the damp, shady climate in which it thrives.

For permanent prevention, however, you should install zinc strips along the ridges of the roof. This works on a new roof, but if your roof already has a mold problem, clean the mold off first and then install the strips—and use a special roofing cleaner, not bleach, which is corrosive.

In addition, missing and torn off shingles make a home susceptible to rot and water damage. To prevent this, replace any loose or missing shingles with new shingles, making sure they are properly installed. If you maintain your roof it will more than simply last 15 years—it will be good to you.

Many Florida residents that have come from the North are surprised by the idea of roof cleaning – and even more surprised by the fact that many communities here in Florida require it. Reasons for cleaning include aesthetics, property values, energy efficiency, and increased longevity of the roof.

Whatever the main reason, if it is going to be done, it is your best interest to know what choices are available to you. A quality roof should last upwards of 30 years if cared for and maintained properly. Unfortunately, many roofs here in Florida (and increasingly throughout the US) are subjected to unnecessary stress while cleaning the greatly reduces the life expectancy of the roof. With repeated roof cleaning comes certain pitfalls that every homeowner, property manager, and professional cleaner should be aware of in order to avoid damage to property, unnecessary repair costs, and the premature replacement of the roof.

WHY HAS THE ROOF TURNED BLACK?

The black streaking typically found on homes in areas where moisture settles on shingles is not caused by mildew or fungus; it’s roof algae. 3M scientists have identified the most common form as Gloeocapsa Magma. Algae spores are carried b the wind, which is why so many houses in the neighborhood can end up with this problem. During the last 20 years, this particular algae strain has become hardier and so has been able to migrate to less humid environments than it has in the past. And in areas where it traditionally has been found, the staining is showing up earlier, is more severe and settles on a greater number of roofs.

HOW CAN IT BE CLEANED?

Typical roof cleaning methods involve either pressure cleaning or chemical solutions containing Chlorine Bleach or Sodium Hydroxide. If used properly, these methods will clean the roof with minimal adverse impact – but the effects can be very temporary and will generally have to be repeated every 6-18 months in order to maintain the appearance of the roof.

WHAT IS THE BEST CLEANING METHOD?

Each method has its advantages and disadvantages.

A chlorine and water solution can be used followed by a thorough rinse. Of course, since chlorine can be toxic to people and plants, proper care should be taken to protect employees and the surrounding property from overspray and runoff. The benefits to using chlorine include a much faster cleaning process and minimal rinsing as compared to other methods. This translates into much less wear & tear on the roof – particularly asphalt shingle roofs.

Sodium Hydroxide based cleaners are generally advertised as safer for the landscaping, but sodium hydroxide is caustic, very toxic, and care should also be used to protect employees and surrounding property. Sodium hydroxide is also a very effective degreaser. So high levels of sodium hydroxide in a cleaning product can cause damage to an asphalt shingle roof that can be irreversible. These products generally require much more rinsing than the chlorine method. The rinsing process is not only time consuming, but it can also be potentially damaging to the roof if not done correctly. A quality sodium hydroxide based product should not require any more than 100 psi to effectively rinse an asphalt shingle roof and even then some granule loss should be expected.

Pressure cleaning is an option that should only be used on a concrete, barrel tile, or metal roofs. Pressure cleaning has the advantage of not requiring chemicals, which eliminates some of the cost – in addition to landscaping and chemical exposure concerns. The down side to pressure cleaning is that it is very time consuming and it exerts tremendous force on a surface that is not really designed to handle it. In addition, repeated pressure cleaning can wear away the surface of some tiles that are only covered by a thin layer of coloring. When this happens, the grey concrete color starts to show through and the roof must be stained or painted.

THESE METHODS ARE NOT LONG-TERM SOLUTIONS.

While these methods are relatively safe and effective when done properly, repeated use will lead to premature aging of the roof. The natural erosion that occurs over tie from the basic forces of heat, cold, wind, and rain alone are enough to weaken most roofs to the point where annual inspections and minor repairs are necessary to prevent significant repair costs. But when the roof is repeatedly subjected to high pressure or harsh chemicals, the aging of the roof structure is significantly accelerated. With repeated cleaning, tiles are more likely to shift, slip, or break and asphalt shingles are more likely to become brittle and crack. When this happens, there is a greater likelihood of tearing the roof membrane simply by walking on the roof. Once gaps are created in the roof and subsequent pressure cleaning or chemical cleaning takes place, these gaps provide the water or caustic solutions a path to the roof membrane and increase the chance of costly roof leaks.

WHAT IS THE ALTERNATIVE?

A proper program of preventative maintenance will eliminate the need for future cleaning and the potential for damage that comes along with it. Preventing the recurrence of the algae growth will require a light spray of chlorine and water or an algae prevention product.

Most quality algaecides will last for approximately 6-12 months before reapplication of the product is necessary. Obviously, the longer the time frame, the better your chances are of minimizing and unnecessary damage to the roof. Prevention programs should be done in conjunction with neighbors whenever possible and many can be applied without a need for walking on the roof.

One important mote about algaecides: Algaecide products are regulated at both the state and federal level. Any algaecide product used on a roof requires EPA registration as a pesticide or biocide and approval for use on a roof. Contractors found violating the law in this regard cold find themselves facing fines up to $10,000. per occurrence.